Winter biking is joy! We loved seeing live feedback from members who shared their favorite things about winter biking.

Our first session was Safety, Routing, and Handling. Amanda (she/her) has been commuting in the winter for a long time, and also has experience with bikepacking events in Alaska in the winter!

Amanda gave some great tips for staying safe in the cold, tips for keeping your bike upright on the ice, and things to keep in mind when choosing a route in the winter. The slides from her presentation are linked here.

Our second session was Winter Bike Maintenance. Lisa (she/they) has been a bike mechanic for over ten years, and she has been riding through the winter since 2011.

Lisa gave us some suggestions for how to maintain your bike weekly, monthly, and seasonally. Their slides (linked here) are a wealth of information!

Our third session was What to Wear. Raven (she/her) and Jenny (she/they) both enjoy winter fat bike racing, and both commute on their bikes.

Raven and Jenny shared a long list of ideas for things to wear, and reminded us to start with what we have. It is also helpful to take notes on weather conditions, what you wore, and how you felt to get a better idea of what works for you. Raven and Jenny’s slides are here.

We loved seeing tips from people attending the event.

The event concluded with a gear swap. As always, first-time winter bikers selected items first, and no one was required to bring anything in order to participate. Thank you to our wonderful community members, as well as Angry Catfish, Free Bikes 4 Kids, and Express Bike Shop for their generous donations! And thank you to Seward Coop for providing snacks.

If you missed the gear swap, remaining items are shared with the WTFNB trading post on Facebook.

A big THANK YOU to all of our volunteers who make this event happen! Grease Rag is an all-volunteer organization, and we could not put on these events without all of the amazing people who share their time, skills, and knowledge.

Happy riding!

On November 10, 2019, dozens of participants of all skill levels attended and participated in Grease Rag’s 11th Annual Winter Skill Share!

At the Winter Skill Share, we tapped into the deep wisdom of our Twin Cities FTW biking community — and shared resources for riding through the Gear Swap — so that we can all have a safe, fun winter riding season.

Special thanks to our presenters Low, Liz, Patrick and France, along with volunteer reporters Kym, Noelle, France and Carolyn. And much gratitude to the incredible organizers and day-of volunteers who brought us together including Low, Patrick, Maddie, Genevieve, Lucy, Linda, JJ, Krista, Ames, Victoria, Margaret, Kat, Tina and others!

Click the links below for recaps from each of the sessions:

• Winter Self Care
• Winter Bike Maintenance
• What to Wear
• Routing and Handling
• Q&A and Group Share

If you have resources or take-aways to add to any of the posts, please email carolyn.szczepanskI@gmail.com and she can update!

Notes and take-aways from Kym!

Low broke the ice (haha) by getting the room laughing. “The first thing you need for biking in the winter is a BIKE!” There is no one right way or only way to bike through the winter. There are benefits and drawbacks of many different set up options; types of frames, tires, breaks, and more, there is no one right way or only way to bike through the winter. 

Winter biking can get really gear intense and the $$$ can add up quickly. Low had great suggestions for low budget DYI options such as making a rear fender with zip ties and a lawn campaign sign. 

You don’t have to have the best set up to get started.  Low didn’t bike the whole winter their first two winters.  First winter they stoped  when there was crazy ice.  Second winter Low stopped when it got too cold and they didn’t have enough warm accessories to keep hands and feet warm.  Third winter Low got studded tired and became invincible!  You’ll develop a dream bike set up over time, but you don’t need to start with it! 

Don’t clean your chain naked! Or with long dangling things hanging from you.  Or while distracted. You can get hurt and you will probably get messy. Lubing and cleaning your bike is not entirely different than taking care of hair and skin. Some products are more protective but also get gunky and have build up and need to be cleaned off. Some products are light and don’t get as gunky but also don’t last as long.  

Notes and take-aways from Noelle!

It was great to learn more about how to take care of my bike in frigid, salty times! My key take-away from this session was that- I *can* do this! Low led a session that normalized learning as you go, making it work for you (even if that’s not what someone else has deemed the “right” way), utilizing our community resources. Some highlighted tips are below!

• Think about how your shifter will work with mittens
• Consider how snow and ice will impact your breaking mechanism- disc brakes are least affected
• Don’t your inflate tube all the way with studded tires- give em room to breathe
• Invest in a kick stand- I currently don’t have one on my bike and having one will make maintenance a lot easier!
• Clean your chain weekly, but not with tri-flow- get a lube that is specific for wet/cold conditions
• Tri-flow everything else that moves! Spoke nipples, derailleur, cables etc. Make it part of your weekly maitenance plan.
• Grease other threaded things and your seat post!
• Create a space to do the maintenance- you could use boot mats or a tarp to make sure you don’t trash your living quarters
• Windex with a drop of soap works as a great degreaser to clean your bike
• And my favorite bit of advice from the session: use a toilet brush to smack the snow and ice off your bike after each trip.

I have always enjoyed turning a wrench and seeing how things work. When I was a kid, my brother and I would tinker around with our bikes, changing the seat configuration, learning to patch a tube (with a match! Do you remember those patches that you burned in place?), etc. My dad had a very precisely organized and well endowed machine shop. I’m pretty sure we never put one thing back where it was supposed to go, but we had a great time “fixing” our bikes.

A couple of years ago, my partner and I were new to the “empty nest.” Our youngest was away at college, all of the others had fledged, and I was really thinking seriously–for the first time in a LONG time–of getting back into bike commuting. I had heard about Grease Rag, and I was intrigued. (I attended a Winter Skill Share at the YWCA!) I studied the calendar and the shop hours, and I decided I really wanted a dedicated “Project.” So, I went on Craigslist and found the perfect bike to work on, a ‘79 Fuji Gran Tourer. It was listed for sale at $30. I called, arranged a time to look at it, and offered the seller $20. Deal!

The bike was in pretty bad shape. It had a registration badge from Cedar Falls, Iowa. How had it made its way to the Twin Cities? Only the bike knows… It had rust on the bottom bracket, and the previous owner had tried to convert it to a single speed. Luckily for me, he had saved all of the parts and put them in a shoe box, which he included with the sale.

I was so excited! I started dismantling the bike with the tools that I had. My wrench set helped me remove a lot of the parts, but I couldn’t get that crank off! I started perusing video tutorials for certain parts removals, and realized that I would need to purchase some bike-specific tools. I had many parts soaking in solvent and I learned how to clean rust off of chrome with aluminum foil. I salvaged as many parts as I could, and took the frame to Grease Rag for my first shop night. It was at Sunrise, at the old location on Lake Street. Everyone was friendly. Shane was amazingly helpful, and we started doing things like removing the headset and assessing the various parts.

I decided, after I had the frame stripped down, to have it bead blasted and powder coated with a new shade of baked-on goodness. I discovered Anthony Peterson (local powder coat specialist) and picked “almond” as the new color for my old frame. Anthony had my frame for a week, and returned it looking pretty spiffy!

Then began the fun part of re-assembling the “new” bike! I ordered a pretty brown B-17 Brooks seat for it, and bought a set of old 27” Campagnolo wheels, again from Craigslist. At Grease Rag (Sunrise), I learned how to overhaul the hubs with new grease and bearings, and Low showed me how to true the wheels. Jamie helped me reinstall the front and rear derailleurs and install new cables. I decided to get rid of the old “suicide” handbrakes and we put on a set of more modern Tektros on the drops. The old quill stem was replaced with a used–but in better shape–stem from the parts bin at the Hub on Minnehaha. I rebuilt the headset with help from Janne at Grease Rag at Recovery, and fine-tuned a bit at Grease Rag at the Hub on University. Finally, back at Grease Rag Sunrise, Jamie helped me put the finishing touches on by choosing some retro pedals from the parts bin and wrapping the handlebars with some fresh tape! She was done!

I rode the bike a couple of times. My son admired it a lot, and I ended up giving it to him. I have since acquired a number of bikes and have set up my own mini-shop at home to maintain my “fleet” of three. None of the bikes I have purchased since then has been rusted and old like the Fuji, either. However, I am truly grateful for the experience–and the help and camaraderie–that marked the completion of that first bike project. That was my introduction to Grease Rag. I found a wonderful place to learn and grow. I encourage anyone who has the itch to try this! I know you can do it! And you will be very pleased and satisfied with the results!

I love attending Grease Rag shop nights. It’s so fun seeing rad WTFs (women/trans/femme) working on their bikes, networking, and sharing their stories. I am so grateful for the help so many gave to me, and for the safer space that Grease Rag is for us non-cis/het* types.

So, what are you working on?

* cis/het = cisgender/heteronormative or heterosexual

Cali is the co-owner of Alley Cat Cycles in Loring Park, apprentice at Peacock Groove, and Bolder Options Bike Mentorship Youth Program Repair Shop Leader. Please contact Cali if you are interested in volunteering at or learning more about Bolder Options: cali.jirsa@gmail.com

Winter Bike Maintenance & Cleaning

Supplies

Hand Lotion – so you’re skin doesn’t absorb the grease
Simple Green Spray –For chain and frame
Simple Green Foaming Cleanser – for chainrings, and tough grime
Phil Tenacious Oil – for pivot points on brakes and derailleurs
Chain Lube – On cleaned chain, drip on, & wipe off excess
Rags
Steel Wool – super gritty!
Sand paper – Also super gritty!!
Brushes
Anti-Seize – for pedals, seat post, stem
Adjustable wrench
Multi-Tool
Super Soap – Most awesome hand cleaner known to woman-kind

#1 Repair it!

Make sure that your bike is safe for winter – last thing you want is a break down in blizzard. Do it yourself or bring it into a shop for a safety check…. A full tune-up is not always necessary.

No Crack! – Wipe down Frame – Check for cracks and other damage, prevent rust.

Prep It –Anti-seize Stem, Seat Post, Accessory Bolts, and Pedals (Don’t Forget – Non-Drive side is reverse threaded)

Lube It – Lubing all pivot points with Tenacious Oil or Chain Oil – Brakes, Derailleurs, Spoke Nipples

Flush It – Spray Chain with Simple Green, brush it off … Repeat. Then lubricate and wipe excess lube off of chain

Brake! – Clean Rims with Steel Wool. Clean Pads with sandpaper. Get the metal bits out or replace them.

Be Proud! – Winter riding is tough… so are you! Have fun out there!!

Like many WTF riders – I don’t have a lot of upper arm strength. No matter how much I pump iron (which isn’t often… if at all) – my arms are just never going to be super buff. And sometimes it can be an issue when you need to remove a dirty bottom bracket, or loosen a quick release skewer that you put on just a little too tight. But creativity and leverage are the key to these problems! Even if you aren’t very strong, using leverage can help you loosen or open something that would have been difficult to loosen otherwise.

For example – the other day I was helping my brother pack up his bike, and we needed to take off his front wheel – we both had injured hands at the time and couldn’t use all our strength. So instead I took off the seat/seat tube of the bike, put the seat tube over the quick release skewer, and then pushed down on the seat – and no problem the skewer was opened!

For most parts of the bike, extending the length of the tool you are pushing or pulling on will help give you more leverage. If you are using an adjustable wrench to loosen something, but its just too tight, slide a pole over the handle of the wrench to extend its length and then push down on the end of the pole. Most times using these tricks make it a lot easier!

Here is another great post from Grease Rag WTF Cayla’s awesome blog, The Bicycle Diaries, about her winter vehicle.  She includes tons of great photos and commentary.  Check it out!  (And don’t think I didn’t notice the Grease Rag name drop- thanks, Cayla!)

Below you can see that I have flat bars on this bike.  My first year winter riding I had flipped and chopped bullhorns.  They were alright, but I felt I wasn’t upright enough to be in control when on ice/snow.  So I switched to risers, however they were from a polo bike, so they were too short.  This year I went to the Hub (Minnehaha) and bought a 5 dollar flat bar from their used parts section.  5 bucks, and I feel WAY more in control that I ever have on a winter bike.

Also, note that I have a knobby tire on my front wheel.  This is because I have a 27 1 1/4″ rims.  These are and OLD size.  This means that they do NOT make studded tires for this size wheel.  Now you may be asking, “Cayla. why don’t you just buy a new front wheel#8221;  That is a fair question.  My answer is: Because this one still works!  This is the original wheel that came on the first fixed gear bicycle I ever bought 4 years ago.  It came in a pair, but the back one got taco-ed 2 summer ago at polo.  I am sure that one of these days the wheel will die, but for now, it is still working and I have no need for it on any other bike.   I will also say that this is one of the things I’d like to adjust. I’d like to buy a 700c front wheel to throw a studded tire on and then I can switch on days that are crazy icy/snowy.  But I need something on the cheap, so holler if you hear anything.

I love Cayla’s attitude about not replacing something until you get something on the cheap or it wears out.

new clips.  These guys are similar to the Hold Fast straps, but made by local polo cat, James.  I had been using power grips, which worked well for the last 3 season, but I was looking for something that held my feet in a little better and were more comfortable.  I saw that James had his own company going, so I thought I’d support a local guy.  I love them.

Cayla, will you send us more info on how to get these local polo-made toe straps?  Thanks!

Cayla goes into more detail on her blog about fenders, her top tube pad, and closes with her thoughts on having a “winter” bike.

Because Winter bikes often get the salt beat into them, I tend to go for things on the cheap, because they will have to be replaced in a few seasons (more often than not.)  Even if I clean my chain every day and take great care of it, in time Ill need a new one anyways. That is just sort of how I look at all things winter bike related.

The most integral part to a bike as a whole, is the frame. The rest is a conglomeration of pieces and parts (some of which work better than others). In summation, they all work together to create a simple machine for transportation. You put in the energy and the wheels will take you wherever you want to go!

Frames are made of different materials, the main 3 being steel, aluminum alloy, and what’s known as carbon (which is really a composite of woven sheets of carbon fiber and apoxy of various strengths, stiffness, and weight). Within these 3 categories there are multiple variances that determine the way your frame feels (stiffness, weight, steering) when you ride it. Some are more comfortable than others- the winner generally being steel for its durability and soft, reliable ride. Aluminum became really popular in the mid-80’s to early 90’s as a frame material because it is slightly lighter than steel and a lot stiffer, which makes the bike ride feel faster, esp. in handling. Mid-90’s, carbon also started making it into higher end bicycles and is now kind of the standard for anything ‘racy’. Alright, where does that leave your frame?

If you’ve never serviced your frame with an overhaul- now’s the time. You will be able to determine several things. If you’re feeling the wobbles when you ride, you probably have a loose hub on your wheel, a loose headset, or even a loose bottom bracket. The headset and bottom bracket are not part of your frame. They are parts attached to your frame either by threading on the frame or the fork. Take out the BB, seatpost, and the headset and check to see if the threading is damaged in any way (if they have siezed, they will be impossible to remove w/o significant effort and possibly ruining the frame). If the threading is damaged, you can chase it (although, the fork is better replaced with a new one. Once those threads are gone, it will change the diameter of of the stearer-tube. It is easiest and safest to replace the fork with one that has the same rake and diameter (either 1″ or 1 1/8″). Take this opportunity to replace your BB and headset (each about $20 for a standard, cheapo replacement) so you have new ball-bearings and races. This will make your ride smoother and safer!

While you have your frame open take the opportunity, again, to observe a few things that effect the integrity of your frame. Look for rust or corrosion at the weep-holes or inside the tubing. If the inside of your frame is starting to rust, it could very well be deeper that you think and your frame probably has a limited life expectancy. If your frame is not steel, look for signs of cracking in the paint. If your bike has ever been crashed, pay close attention to damage that may not be immediately visible. Also check the exterior of your frame for dings, divits, or large patches missing paint (esp. if they’ve started to rust). Surface rust can be polished off with steel wool and then given a base-coat of matching fingernail polish or even clear polish. This will keep the elements from continuing to eat your metal!

Sometimes, even when the damage isn’t that bad, you should assess your bike from the standpoint of function and and cost to fix it and make it safe to ride. If your drive-train is not functioning safely and you need to replace it, this would be the time. Usually it’s easiest and cheapest to convert to a single-speed. If your brakes aren’t the best, take them off, clean them, check the springs. If you can find good replacements, you’re lucky. Older frames are drilled for a different type of brake than is standard now, so if you want to get new brakes, you may be looking at compatibility issues.

If repairing the bicycle is going to cost MORE than the bike is worth, or what you can afford- sometimes it is best to let the poor beast go and either get a new frame in better condition, or start saving for a new bike altogether. It is not safe to continue riding a bicycle that has been compromised unless you are willing to put in the time, effort, and money to continuously care for it and wait for the day when it’s no longer tenable.

One more option comes to mind, since you all live in a wintery place. Having a winter bike is a great idea- use your oldest bike or the one in question and don’t worry about the fact that after riding it all winter it will probably be finished.

Thank you for those who stuck around to talk about roadside repair! Here is a recap for those of you that couldn’t make it. This is a skill-share that I’d like to repeat again. If you’d like an additional topic covered, please let us know!

Give Yourself a Break

Sometimes you are unable or unwilling to do a roadside repair, and that’s perfectly okay!

Phone a friend, use a bus pass, use your guaranteed ride home pass, or walk. Flip your bike upside down as a distress signal. Secure your bike with a U-lock using proper locking technique, and come back for it later. Throw your bike on a bus rack. Know where your local bike shops are.

Tools to Carry

We opened our tool bags/ tool burritos and compared the things that we carry.

Susan’s toolkit

Lowrah’s Tool Burrito

Lowrah’s tools

Avoiding Flats

Keep your tires at or near maximum pressure. Use high-quality, puncture-resistant tires. Avoid potholes, broken glass, etc.

Fixing Flats

Practice= confidence!

Inspect the wheel, tire, and tube. Is it a pinch flat (snake bite), puncture (hole) or tire fail (blow out)? Is it patchable, do you have a spare tube and pump? If you can identify a patchable hole, sand it down well, let the glue dry fully, firmly put on the patch. If you have a tire blowout or hole, boot the tire with a dollar bill as a temporary fix.

Chains

Keep your chain clean and lubed. Know how to put your chain on your bike if it falls off. Know how and when to use your chain tool.

By Shayne

Winter Bicycle Maintenance and Cleaning Recap

Keeping your bike clean is the key to ensuring your ride doesn’t fall apart before spring and it will save you money on costly repairs. Most people have a “winter shitter” that they use during the snowy months. It’s a good idea to have a second bike for the winter season. But if you don’t, that’s okay. It just means you’ll want to clean and maintain your bike more often and more thoroughly.

Every few days

You want to do a basic cleaning every couple of days to remove all the salt and grime. SALT IS YOUR WORST ENEMY! It will rust and destroy everything. The main things you want to clean are:

1. The frame- Every inch of the frame should be cleaned off to remove the nasty salt. Spray down the whole bike and wipe off with a rag. Handlebars, fork and around the headset, frame, pedals, cranks, wheels. You can purchase a bike cleaner spray from your local bike shop or the Simple Green brand spray works well too.
2. All gears- Remove all the built up grease and grime with a rag. Old toothbrushes and q-tips work well too.
3. The chain- Clean the chain with a rag and degreaser then re-lube it. Running it through all the gears after. If there’s a lot of  built up gunk on your chain, use q-tips to get in between each link.
4. Wheels- The rims of the wheels need to be scrubbed well.  Don’t forget to clean your spokes! Keeping the spokes free of salt will extend the life or your wheel set. Putting a drop or two of  lube where the nipple meets the rim will also help remove/repel salt. Also, clean the hub with a rag. Shoving a rag inside the spokes works well.
5. The cranks- Be sure to get inside and around the bottom bracket. Again, q-tips work wonders here.
6. Fenders- If you have fenders, clean em. Snow salt and grime get built up underneath.

Every two weeks

Every two weeks or so you want to do a more thorough cleaning. Start by doing the basic cleaning steps above.

1. Remove the stem, clean off old grease and apply new grease.
2. Remove the seat post, clean off old grease on the post and inside the frame. Apply new grease to the inside of the frame.
3. Remove the cranks if you have a crank puller, reapply grease and reattach the cranks. If you don’t have a crank puller, no worries. This will be done when you bring your bike in for a spring over-haul.

End of the season

Once the snow stops falling, bring your bike in for an over-haul!

There you have it. The longer your bike stays clean, the longer life it will have. A well-maintained bike also means a smoother ride for you.

-Shayne